C&S Bespoke, Meet McCall’s 6649


This is one of my first pattern hacks for my beloved McCall’s 6649 (sadly out of print now, boo hoo, but you could achieve the same look with the Sewaholic Granville!). Nothing really major here. I extended the back yoke into a front yoke and then took the bust dart and turned them into shoulder gathers. If you’re interested, I’m posting these pattern hacks and several other mini tutorials on my Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. I love tips and so I thought you might like some of my tips here and there for various things that I’m working on at the moment.


Anyway, this shirt. For the next round, I’m thinking that I would increase the shoulder gathers a bit. There’s just not enough gathering for my taste, but outside of that, I love this shirt. It’s made from that new Cotton & Steel Bespoke double gauze. Sheesh, these guys are doing some really really really fun and exciting things.


This fabric is fairly interesting. If you love linen for its soft wrinkles then you’ll love cotton double gauze for the very same reason. I happen to adore this feature in linen and so double gauze is a natural for me. When Cotton & Steel announced that they were going to do double gauze (and then later announced that they were going to do rayon challis!!!!) I was all sorts of excited. Quickly bought up a stitch and decided that this couldn’t sit in the stash for an age. Feels good to be using fabric – and wearing it! Ha ha!


Long ago, I brought up this fun topic. What do you think of sewing clothing from quilting cotton? While this double gauze is technically not a typical quilting cotton, it is manufactured by a quilting cotton company. I have to admit that I feel that if you confine yourself to only using quilting cottons for garments you are seriously missing out on a whole world of fabric that’s available to you – even for quilting! Like seriously. Wools, silks, rayons, linens, different types of cotton – besides quilting – and then there’s a whole world of knits, not to mention all the different weaves and such from all of the different fabrics.

I’m really, really glad to see many of the quilting cotton manufacturers venturing beyond the plain weave quilting cotton, getting into voiles, lawns and even rayon challis. Very exciting. I’m hoping we see more exciting things come from them in the future. Wouldn’t you agree?

Well, if you’re already sick of seeing my McCall’s 6649, well, that’s just too bad. I’ve already made 2 more that I haven’t blogged and then I’m planning on more and more and more! Ha ha! I’ll try to keep it interesting by showing you all my future pattern hacks. I’ve got SOOOOOOOOO many for this pattern. Now, off to cut more button-ups. Hurrah for the button-up TNT (tried and true pattern).


29 thoughts on “C&S Bespoke, Meet McCall’s 6649

  1. Great top! I love your modifications to this pattern. and, that fabric is gorgeous, never would have thought it was a double gauze! As a matter of fact, I think this is the first time that I’ve heard of “double” gauze. You look great!

  2. I will admit to occasionally using a quilting-type cotton for a garment, as long as the style is right for it. They just have such fun colors and prints! So I for one am quite happy that the manufacturers are branching out into different types of fashion fabrics. I’m also looking forward to seeing what other ways you modify a button-down. I recently purchased the Granville, since I actually didn’t have a classic button-down shirt pattern on hand, and I have a feeling I’m going to be sewing that type of shirt for awhile since I’m going to need easy nursing access! So variations on a basic pattern are good. 🙂

  3. This is fantastic! I love the pattern hack – a forward yoke with shoulder gathers is one of my favorite details in shirts. And it works beautifully in this fun, feminine, and bright print. I love double gauze, it’s so comfy and soft! I can only imagine that this shirt is a delight to wear!

  4. That is really cute!

    As for quilting cotton, I use it and vintage feedsack almost exclusively, because every time I try a different type of cotton fabric, I have a massive sewing fail. I’ve found that premium quilting cotton has a decent drape and nice hand to it. My main complaint about nearly every other type of plain woven cotton I’ve tried is that it is just tissue thin or it has terrible drape. I wish the fabric companies would make something similar to percale (but I’ve not found it, at least not in a 100% cotton) or feedsack. I have some vintage percale from the 1950s that I’ve sewn with and it is quite nice. I like wools and have sewn a bit with corduroy (which did work out well) but the expense of wool is a little off-putting, given my budget for these sorts of things. I’m all for spending money on quality garments that will last, but I’m still learning a lot about fitting and so forth, and I can never be sure that a garment is going to come out properly even if I make a muslin. I feel less devastated by a $30 wadder than I would be by a $75 wadder.

    1. Oh yes. When you start venturing away from quiliting cottons, the expense of fabric is astonishing. I completely understand! Cotton is so versatile too. It’s a classic!

  5. I just ordered the Sewaholic Granville and am hoping to sew up my first attempt this weekend. I really would love to have a TNT button-up. I am seeing some beautiful cotton lawn fabric’s out there that I would love to use once I perfect my TNT!! Button holes and button ups was on my 2015 list of things to conquer – so any tips on this subject is greatly appreciate (i.e. best interfacing to use when making buttonholes, etc)! Keep those button ups coming!

    1. I’m really beginning to feel that the best interfacing for button-up shirts is David Coffin’s suggestion for bleached muslin. Really. It works beautifully with so many different fabrics and when you use the gluestick trick to baste it on, it doesn’t leave you with a big mess after the first wash.

  6. I love you patter hack. My first encounter with sewing started with quilter cotton then into other fabrics. I am glad I did. Keep those shirts coming I learn so much thank you. To bad I don’t live near by to take a class. I would totally take the shirt one.

  7. I’ve used some quilting cotton for simple dresses in the past. But that was when I was just getting back into sewing and didn’t want to spend a lot of money on things that might not work out. I LOOOOVE that some quilting cotton companies are branching out into different fibers and weights. Rayon challis is my all-time favorite fabric for summer, but sometimes the prints available are just too childish or plain or just blah. I love Amy Butler’s line. Can’t wait to see what Cotton + Steel release! And Art Gallery Fabrics’ quilting cottons are actually poplin, which makes them really great for some garments.

  8. I adore this shirt!! That print is fantastic and I love the modifications you made. Cotton&Steel can do no wrong in my eyes. The quilting industry is surprisingly versatile and has A TON of different substrates besides plain old quilting cotton. Linen, rayon, knits, voile, lawn, denims, stretch denim, corduroy, faux suede, flannel, double gauze, canvas, twill, silk blends, etc etc etc. For the type of sewing I like to do, and the types of prints I love, there’s no reason for me to look outside the quilt industry so I definitely don’t feel like I’m missing out on anything 🙂

    1. This is crazy! Several of the substrates you mention here I haven’t yet seen! Where are they? I agree that they are becoming more versatile and the quilting industry is doing some really fun things. It’s great to see! I’m sure we’ll be seeing more and more!

  9. I have made garments from quilting fabric, although I use all sorts of fibers. But I do understand that some people will never use quilting cotton. But why? Of course some people live far from any fabric store except one dedicated to quilting, so they may feel that they have little choice except to use quilting cotton. But the reverse seems odd to me; even if you have good garment fabric available, why not use quilting fabric for some garments?

    1. It’s a good question. I personally have found that quilting cotton eases very poorly – like in the case of setting in a sleeve. Just has so many puckers, akin to muslin. And then I’ve also found that while the prints can be amazingly awesome, I can get too carried away and pick the print that makes me look like a looney-toon. I usually tend to steer clear from the quilting cotton shops or sections because I know I’ll pick a bad print. But then again, sometimes that won’t even stop me. These lovely new Art Gallery and Cotton and Steel prints are so awesome! I just can’t resist!

  10. I love it. I am also a big fan of double gauze. i generally stay clear of quilting cottons for garment sewing, but like you said double gauze has the illusion of linen and has a decent drape. yay for tnt patterns too!

  11. stunning colour – it looks so well on you, and i totally get when a pattern works for you it works – i have just finished 2 versions of same skirt…………

  12. What a beautiful shirt Sunni! I adore the color and shoulder gathers. I tend to shy away from button-up shirts because I get the gappies. I wear a full C-D cup and I’m fuller on the sides…to the point that bandeau swim tops are an absolute must because I fall out of every other style in the center or underneath. It seems that if I make a shirt big enough not to gap, then the sides or back of the shirt are like a tent. Heaven forbid the pattern has sleeves to alter an armseye as well. I really struggle with this fitting issue.

    Quilting cottons for clothing? Not so much. 1. They wrinkle HORRIBLY in the wash; and 2. They are dense and don’t breathe well in this humid southern heat I live in (most of the year but not lately!)

  13. This is a beautiful shirt, and the color looks amazing on you! Double gauze is such a great fabric, but it’s been ages since I’ve used it. Itching to try it again!

  14. This looks great on you! I love the color, too. I’ve used many a quilting cotton in the basic fit-and-flare vintage style dresses I love, as they’re quite well suited for that. But not so much for other things I want to sew, usually. This year I’m more interested in sewing separates, and trying to come up with fabrics I want to sew blouses in and will wear is frustrating. I’m finishing up a simple top on C+S lawn which is a lovely fabric. I’m really excited that some of these companies are trying out other fabrics. What I’ve always wished was that there was some magical equivalent of the weight of cotton used on the majority of my cotton vintage dresses/blouses/etc. A bit heavier than lawn (with no chances of being sheer), but nowhere near a quilting weight. Just perfect for garments. Sigh.

    1. I hear you Tasha! I just picked up a vintage piece of gingham and am shocked that it’s soft, a little flowy and also the perfect weight for a shirt or dress.

  15. This is super cute! I love the little detail with the floral fabric. I love when you get a pattern perfect and you can keep making new looks with it!
    I love your blog by the way. I have visited it for years and don’t ever leave a comment. I have learned a lot and enjoy seeing what you create. Felt like I should finally thank you for the time you take for this!

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