T is for Tyler

So have y’all heard about Named Patterns? There are so many indie pattern companies now (its so awesome, dontcha think?) and this company is one of the most recent. They sell PDF patterns – something that you all know that I actually kind of loathe, but by the same token, their pattern offerings are rather amazing. Anyway, Named first caught my eye from Rachel over at House of Pinheiro. Immediately, I snatched up 3 of their patterns (this coat, this tee and of course, the Tyler shirt).

This is the Tyler shirt from Named’s current offerings. I love it. The raglan sleeve thing is what drew me to the pattern in the first place (though its hard to tell from my printed version).ย  Then there’s the little cuffs and collar too. I love little things like this instead of the always oversized details from the big 4. I love a good raglan sleeve on really, just about anything and so I decided to take the plunge and make it up first. I made up a muslin. I made my usual broad back adjustment – I can’t wait for the day when I don’t make this dumb alteration. I had to add a good 4 inches back there. Seriously this is actually pretty normal for me. I also shortened the sleeves an inch. Next time around I’m also going to raise the armhole as its a little too low for ultimate comfort. This is definitely not going to be the only version I make (already have a silk print cut out!!). These alterations all resulted in the most comfortable button up shirt I have yet made or ever owned. It’s simply delightful to wear!

The pattern itself is quite well drafted. Especially the sleeve. Usually on a raglan sleeve I experience some wrinkles that point upward toward the tip of the shoulder. This is normal (I’ve read that in several places) and I usually don’t do anything to adjust it, but on this pattern, there is no fitting wrinkles (for me) in the sleeve at all. Beautiful sleeve draft. All the pieces went together without a hitch and it wasn’t too difficult to trace the pattern off after putting the PDF sheets together. They only sell two sizes at a time which is actually kind of a godsend considering how crazy some patterns can be to trace. The only thing that I would say would make it even easier is to leave out the seamlines – all patterns include a 3/8″ seam allowance.

I ended up extending those 3/8″ seam allowances to 5/8″ seam allowances in the body of the shirt because I wanted to do flat felled seams. Made all the more awesome by this rather amazing Liberty print that I picked up some time ago at lowpricefabrics.com (my go to for Liberty’s as they have the best price around for them). It’s got an asian theme and I love the color combo. Liberty’s get me every time. I love these fabrics. However, I confess that I didn’t take the time to print match. I can be bothered with plaid matching, but print matching is something else entirely. I hail those who have the patience for such things. Seriously, all hail. To be honest, print matching can be kind of hit or miss with me. Sometimes I can definitely tell when someone went to the trouble of print matching and other times, I just think, why? Why torture yourself? Especially when I would never have been able to tell unless you told me. Still, I can see its value, I guess. While we’re on it, you can probably see there is a big difference in a print for this particular pattern than a solid, like the original has. I love both for their difference, but this pattern totally works both ways. Great pattern for both prints and solids.

Additionally I paired my Liberty with a scrap I had for the inner collar stand, sleeve placket and inner cuff. Speaking of, I used my own sleeve placket. I don’t bother with trying to do it a different way because this one works like a dream every time. Its the one from this Thread’s article.

I decided on snaps here in lieu of buttons. I love me some snaps people. I can like rip out of my shirt now! Yessss! Plus, I used the Snap Setter, and if you’re still in the dark ages and putting on snaps with that rotten Dritz plier, let me enlighten you. These things really work, they ain’t too hard to use and I have yet to break any of the pearl snaps. Win. Worth it. Plus they have every color of snap and snap type under the sun. What’s not to love here?

This pattern is not for beginners. And actually, now that we’re talking about that, just so you are aware, while the pattern comes with instructions, it does not come with illustrations. I’m totally cool with that. I would rather have an excellently drafted pattern than sewing instructions any day. I have a much different way of a constructing a button up shirt – more in line with David Coffin’s excellent book on the subject – than any pattern instructions I’ve ever seen really offer. Speaking of, I also really really like this book on sewing shirts too.

Now for the PDF thing. This pattern was actually brilliantly put together for PDF printout. The pattern pieces are all overlapped on top of each other (like a Burda Mag) and since you really have to trace off these types of patterns anyway, this is really really awesome. Yet, since there are only two sizes, the pattern lines were easy to see and everything worked out pretty much like a piece of cake. I’m totally sold. Pattern makers take a cue!!!! I only had to print out 12 pages. This compared with something like 75 for a jacket from Burda Style that I did once. So dumb!

I’m seriously, seriously loving the semi androgynous look of this new pattern company. While I love many of the cuter, more ladylike patterns that many of the other indie’s offer, I admit that I have to be pretty careful with stuff like that. I just look really weird in some ofย  those styles. So, I did have some misgivings about this small size of the collar and cuffs here. But since the style is a bit more masculine-ish, it totally rocked my world. Named – you’ve got my attention. Love. at. first. stitch.

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38 thoughts on “T is for Tyler

  1. Such a fab shirt Sunni! The fabric is fantastic and the style suits you so well.
    I love the contrasting placket etc and the red studs, such cute details (which I always love about your makes!).
    Can’t wait to see how your other Named makes turn out – beautiful no doubt ๐Ÿ™‚

  2. I am intrigued by your comment about looking forward to the day when you do NOT need to do a broad back adjustment. Could you explain a little more. I recently made a dress that fit perfectly in the front in a size 12, but wouldn’t come close to zipping in the back. I thought about just cutting a 16 back and using darts to make it fit at the shoulders. I believe I read a post of yours about broad back adjustment. And yes, used to swim a lot.

    Also, I used your free zipper class to learn how to do a good invisible zipper insertion and will be referring to it again when I want to do one with a lining. Thanks!

  3. Eep! These are lovely. As is your shirt. Love the colours on you.
    I’ve just been asked to make a cape for a friend and have emailed her the link to the Avery Cape. Gorgeous. Thanks for the heads up!

  4. This Tyler shirt is ROCKING! That print is so great, and I love the snaps ๐Ÿ™‚ I haven’t ordered any patterns from Named yet, but the three you ordered were my top three favorites!!! Can’t wait to see what you do with that Andy coat ๐Ÿ˜‰

  5. Looks lovely! I have a question…did you have any problem printing out the pattern on 8 1/2 x 11 paper? I saw on the website that they’re offered on A4 paper only. I’m in the US, like you, so I emailed them to ask about it but the email bounced back to me. I have my eye on the Charley Tux pants…I don’t have anything like them.

    Thanks!

  6. I just heard about Named patterns from Rachel’s site, as well. I love their designs, they are very strong and bold, and not 50s looking at all. Something exciting and new for the sewing world. I like this blouse and I look forward to seeing the other two patterns you sew up.

  7. Gorgeous shirt Sunni! Thank you for that in depth review of Named. I was in two minds about ordering some. I adore the designs but wasn’t sure if they were worth investing in. I think I’ll have to indulge now. I adore the fabric too. Gotta love Liberty!

  8. I LOVE seeing this all made up!! I would love one of every pattern they have available!!

    I was lucky enough to win Rachel’s giveaway. I almost choose Tyler, but went with the Jamie Jeans. I was little surprised by the lack of illustrations, but I’ve never made pants before. I might has chosen differently had I known.

  9. Love your shirt! It is on my wishlist too! I’m looking forward to your dress, I really want to make it but I’m unsure about fabric choice.
    I really like al the vintage/ 50’s stuff going on at the Indie patterncompagnies but look better in designs like the one Named makes!

  10. I LOVE all the details and information you have given about this pattern. Things like calling attention to the smaller scale collar and cuffs as opposed to the Big 4. You are so right on that account. I think this new company has a really cool, clean vibe to its patterns. I really like the contrast fabric you have added, too. Keep the great pattern reviews coming!

  11. Fabulous shirt! There really is an art to making a shirt, and you’ve totally knocked this one out of the park. Thanks also for the link to lowpricefabrics.com. Even guys love Liberty, and their offerings are totally splurge worthy.

  12. I fell in love with Tyler, the minute I saw the pattern too and it’s great to see such a beautiful version made up. I may have to bump it up my list as it’s such a versatile item to make!

  13. This is a great shirt! The print goes well with your hair and character ๐Ÿ™‚ I’ve just finished their Aydan dress and I like it. But, unlike you, I was quite disappointed with the pattern layout ๐Ÿ˜ฆ If I had to choose, I’d rather print 35 pages than trace the pattern. Anyway, there is always somebody who’ll be ranting ๐Ÿ™‚

  14. I use that placket from that threads article too! It really does work every time. I’ve been eyeing that shirt making book for some time, I think it’ll be my next purchase.
    The shirt is adorable. Thanks for all of the tips and sites you linked here. Your posts are always informative.

  15. Love the shirt! I fell hard for their jeans pattern, just waiting for some mad cash to splurge! I’m totally confused at why you trace off your downloaded patterns though – and I trace pretty much everything. My reasons for tracing are that patterns are expensive and I want to preserve a clean copy, but with digital patterns, the clean copy is the pdf. So can you talk through why you like to trace them again? I’m genuinely baffled. (Though I get here that these pdfs are laid on top of each other, like Burda, so you HAVE to tape then print – Manequim does this too but I personally think it’s the worst of both worlds. I don’t mind tracing and I don’t mind taping, but don’t make me do both!!)

  16. @Isabel – I’ll try to put together some posts about broad back. There are many fixes, many I’ve tried and many have success. Its just aggravating! I wish there were patterns designed just for me without me having to design them!!!!

    @Ann – Actually yes. I had to purchase a4 paper online in order to print out the patterns. So I contacted the ladies at Named and told them about this issue and they told me that they were going to correct that so that the patterns could be printed on both a4 and us 8.5 x 11. I didn’t mention that part because of this. I think they just might not have known yet when they debuted their patterns, which is totally fine.

    @Wanett – I’m loving the Jamie Jeans too. I’ll admit I was surprised too at the lack of illustrations especially because the patterns were a tad pricey for pdfs, but I’m OK with it I guess. Kind of like Burda Style Patterns, yet their patterns are only $5.40….

    @Mainleydad – So glad you found your way to lowpricefabrics.com! I think you would look smashing in any Liberty!!

    @Thewallinna – You’re right. I can see both sides, but admit that I like to only print out these patterns one time trace them off and then roll them up and out of the way.

    @melissa – I always trace them off because I hate having the tape from taping multiple sheets of paper together stick to anything else and also because I always have to make fitting alterations and using stiff printer paper just makes it harder. Ugggh! Also, I find its hard to cut out the pattern from the fabric because its hard to pin through the printer paper. I’m being totally snobby about it too!!! Additionally, I’ve almost always had to reprint this or that and so instead I just print off all of those pdf pages once, put it all together and treat it just like an envelope pattern – trace it off without harming the original. This way I only have to print off the pages once. I just keep pdf patterns rolled up in a corner at one side of my studio. I used to print out and cut out my size and such, but then I also found the patterns hard to store and reuse when I had folded them up into an envelope. I can’t iron them back out because of the tape and many of the taped intersections just become weak. I’m ranting, but this is a major reason why I would much rather purchase an envelope pattern over a pdf any day. But there’s so many great pdfs!!! Can’t help myself!

  17. Love this shirt! I just bought the Andy coat and I’m so sad thet there is no illustration in the intrusion. Please do a sew along for the coat, will you?

  18. Excellent pattern line and not a retro vibe in sight – yay!
    I too am blessed with broad shoulders, I like to think of my body shape as athletic, definitely good for sabre toothed tiger wrangling! I recently viewed a video on Threads about shoulder adjustments and noted that I don’t have a forward shoulder so much as a protruding shoulder bone which makes all my shirts pull diagonally. The great thing about this pattern is possibly that having a raglan seam, the bias has give and the bone pulling issue is no longer a problem?

  19. Hi, Sunni, thanks for the advice about the paper. I just ordered some…if anyone reading this is based in NYC and wants to share, I’m going to have plenty extra!

  20. Holy Moly that fabric is just AMAZING!!! I super love it. I’ll have to check out that pattern company, they sound really neat. Don’t you just love the sewing community even more for that reason? Stumbling on to new awesome things? It’s the best.

    p.s. I’m still loving your pixie cut! You’re gorgeous.

  21. Sunni I think we are style buddies! I love menswear inspired pieces that are still feminine. Love this, loooove a good raglan sleeve, would love to try Jamie jeans, generally hate PDFs :).

  22. Wow, this is fabulous! I love it! Your fabric choice is so perfect! I’ve got to get the Snap Setter– the Dritz pliers brought on more tears, cursing, and general bad toddler behavior than any other sewing situation I’ve faced to date!

  23. It is really beautiful! I love your shirt, it is really chic and your second version is also amazing. I think I will try these patterns even if I think it is a little bit too expensive for a pdf pattern without explanation with pictures. Thanks also for the links of the books witch seem to be very interesting!

  24. Hi Suuni, I have a broad back too! How do you make your adjustment? My book says just to add a bit in across the centre of the back but if I am making a dress this makes the skirt bit too wide. I’d love to hear your views

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